Maval Caves - Karle Caves 1

As the economic development has taken the center stage, the balance between the environmental sustenance and socio economic development will be under the scanner. As most experts with balanced views have proclaimed, Indian wildlife and ecological system sustenance will be under threat, unless precautions are taken with the help of appropriate research and long term national interests. As we encounter the economic development, many habitats which indirectly or directly help sustainable development will be damaged. The awareness to gauge the success by sustainable development and not by year to year growth is a distant dream any environmentalist will assume in current scenario.
Western ghats, or Sahyadri as we all call it as, is a treasure trove of spectacular landscapes, biodiversity, flora, fauna, some amazing geological wonders and man made monuments. With the increasing pressure from human encroachment, all these elements are under stress and in turn are under depletion. Western ghats should be left untouched by human beings, to protect their future generations from getting short of resources, such as water, energy and clean air. The important elements of western ghats, which need protection are highlighted in the new version of Photo journal, Me Sahyadri Magazine. The current issue has some photographs and information about the Karle Caves as a part of series of photo essays about “mysteries of caves of Maval”, Pune district, India

Since I visited Karle Caves in childhood, I always wondered what the umbrella over Stupa in Karle Chaityagriha is ? But never I could see what is on it, as there is always a pitch darkness on the umbrella. It was when I studied the sun lighting of chaitya, I realised that light falls around Stupa on few summer days. It was on one summer day that I could realise what is carved on this umbrella.

Rock cut cave temples of India are amazing architectural antiquities. Most of the caves in India are associated with Buddhism, Jainism and Hinduism. One of the most oldest important cave group in eastern India, is Barabar caves, excavated as early as 252 B.C. to 214 B.C.
In Western India, in state of Maharashtra there are several rock cut caves located at Ajantha, Ellora, Karle, Bhaje, Bedsa, Kanheri, Eliphanta, Aurangabad, Pitalkhora, Junnar, Nashik and numerous other sites. These caves mainly belong to Buddhism and few belong to Jainism and Hinduism. Most of these caves were excavated between 2nd century B.C. and 10th century A.D.
The various important cave groups in western India, throw light on several aspects of the history of India. The rock cut caves have lasted as compared to other contemporary brick and wood structures. The inscriptions, paintings, sculptures, ornamentations, architectural details at these rock cut caves give very important information about the history. The various aspects of the era when caves were excavated, such as the social life, trade, religion and kingdoms can be realised from the information available.

Though the caves often invoke great interest and curiosity in the mind of common visitors, today there is a lack of systematic desimination of the valuable information to the common visitor. The awareness of the common visitor about the significance of our heritage is very important for the effective affirmative enrichment of our current civilisation. Karle is one of the most famous centres of early rock-cut architecture in India. It is important Buddhist heritage site. Compared to the rock-cut caves at Ajanta and Ellora, the Karle group of rock-cut caves is not that elaborate. However, the Chaityagriha of Karle is the grandest and the largest of all the chaitagrihas of India. Chaityagriha means Buddhist temple of worship. The group of Karle caves consists of 16 rock cut caves. Out of which cave 8 is the chaityagriha which was created during Satavahana period. (about circa 60-40 B.C.)

Veehergaon is a village in Maval tehesil in Pune district in the state of Maharashtra in India. The village is located at the base of the one of the Sahyadri hill ranges on the Deccan plateau. Spread in west–east orientation, this hill range, which is about 13 kilometer in length, is spread from the western ghat ridge, north of Lonavala up to the village Walakh towards east. Karle caves are located in the southern scarp of this hill range. This hill range is refered as Karle range in this write up. Further south, another west-east oriented hill range is spread over about 35 kilometer, from Kurvande at western ghat main ridge up to the Shelarwadi towards east. This hill range has important archaeological sites such as Bhaje caves, Lohgad, Visapur and Shelarwadi caves. . This hill range is refered as Visapur range in this write up. Karle is situated in Maval Taluka of Pune district on the Pune-Mumbai old highway, about 60 kilometer northwest of Pune and 11 kilometer northeast of Lonavala town. The location of Karle is important. It is on the ancient trade route connecting seaports of Kalyan and Sopara to the towns located inland on Deccan plateau. The other nearest centres of great Buddhist activity are Bhaje, which is 8 km south of Karle and Bedse, which is 21 km southeast of Karle. Karle caves are excavated at elevation of 100 metres, from base, on a high spur of the hill range on the north side of the Indrayani valley. Indrayani river originates in hills near Lonavala and flows eastward and is tributary of Bhima river. The Karle chaityagriha is the most prominent of all the excavations of Karle. There is a wide and flat open area in front of the chaityagriha.

The ancient trade route climbs up the western ghat ridge from the Konkan over to the Deccan plateau at Lonavala. Once atop Deccan plateau at Lonavala, the trade route is aligned parallel to Indrayani river. This ancient trade route was used to transport the goods from the eastern economic centres on the Deccan plateau to Kalyan and Sopara ports on the western coast of India. Today the modern Mumbai-Pune road and Central railway line passes through the same Indrayani river basin, which was used for ancient trade in the past.

The Buddhist monasteries at Karle can be datable between circa 60-40 B.C. and 4th century A.D. Except from few excavations of Mahayana phase the remaining excavations mainly belong to the Hinayana phase. The caves were formed from the donations and support of a group of individuals, such as merchants and merchant groups; the prince of Maharathi family; bhikhus and devotees including men and women. Persons from every strata of the society contributed towards the establishment of this monastery, indicating its importance in the Buddhist world.

There are about 37 inscriptions found here. Inscriptions clearly speak of about 50 individuals from various places like Vejamati (Banavasi, north Kanara district, nearly 600 km south of Karle); Sopara (nearly 100 km northwest of Karle) and unidentified towns of Umehanakata and Dhenukakata, Gonekakasa, Karajaka and river Banasa. Most of the donors from Dhenukakata were Yavanas (Greeks). The inscriptions of Usavadata and Vasisthiputra Pulumavi mention donation of land to the Veluraka Samgha. The inscription of Pulumavi is dated in his 24th year of his reign (A.D. 154). The inscriptions thus give the ancient name of Karle as ‘Valuraka’. There is a mention of 12 places in the inscriptions of which few are known today.

The chaityagriha at Karle is the biggest of its type in the whole of India. The hall measures 37.87 m deep from door to back. It is 13.87 m wide and 14.02 m high. This chaitya consists of an apsidal hall with a front verandah. The apsidal means the semicircular recess roof. The hall is divided into a nave (central open space) and two aisles (passages) by two rows of pillars. The two rows of pillars meet at the rear behind the stupa in a semicircle forming the semicircular recess.

The pillars are executed with the great ingenuity which reflect the sculptural art of the period. The pillars consist of a stepped base surmounted by a pot, octagonal shaft over it, the capital of inverted flower vase member, caged amalaka and an inverted stepped pyramid. Above this inverted stepped pyramid there are sculptures of animals with human riders, facing both aisle and main hall. The animals on the capital consist of elephants, horses and centaurs/sphinx like mythological animals. Centaurs are greek mythological animals with human face on horse body. There are total 41 pillars in Chaitya griha. The four pillars parallel to front wall near the entrance are non octagonal and support the beam. There are seven pillars around Stupa which are octagonal but without sculptures atop.

The semicircular roof is fitted with wooden curved ribs and longitudinal beams. The main object of worship is the monolithic stupa at the rear (east) end of the chaityagriha. The stupa consists of a cylindrical block rising in two stages. There is a hemispherical dome over the cylindrical block. On the top of the hemispherical dome there is a cubical Harmika and a stepped inverted square pyramid over it. Over the pyramid is placed a wooden chhatri (Umbrella) with a yashti (shaft) through a hole pierced into it.

The chaityagriha is entered through a front wall, which has three entrances, the central one opening into the nave and the other two, into the side aisles, behind the pillars. The side walls of the verandah, front wall and inner face of the screen wall are extensively decorated with sculptures. The front wall of the verandah is decorated which is executed in two parts. The lower portion consists of a row of railing pattern and above which is six Mithunaa figures (pair of male and female figures) rising up to the level of the lintels. The portion above the doorways is decorated with a series of miniature chaitya windows imitating the huge chaita window. These miniature windows are connected through a vedika (rail pattern) and a roll cornice. This pattern extends throughout the entire width of the facade of the hall.

There is a huge chaitya window in the front wall of the Cahityagriha. The huge chaitya window provides good light source to lit the stupa and the pillars of the grand chaityagriha. The Chaitygriha faces west. There is indirect diffused light in Chaityagriha in the morning and direct sunlight enters the Chaityagriha in the afternoon. The chaityagriha at Karle is also unique as it is one among the two chaityagrihas in western Deccan which has huge lion pillars in front. The other chaityagriha with lion pillars in front is at Kanheri, in Mumbai. This pillar is of the Ashokan type with a huge sixteen sided shaft rising over a platform. The shaft is surmounted by an inverted bell member followed by flat surface and inverted stepped pyramidal plates. Four back to back placed lions are at the top of this pillar. This pillar is located to the north side of the chaityagriha entrance. Similar pillar may have existed on other side.

Top Salient Aspects of Karle Caves
1. The largest and the most spectacular Chaityagriha of India.
2. Datable between circa 60-40 BC and 4th century AD.
3. The caves with both Hinayana and Mahayana architecture.
4. Ancient wooden ribs, yashti and chattri in Chaityagriha (about 2050 years old).
5. Total 37 pali inscriptions , in Brahmi script.
6. Mention of Satvahana king Vasisthiputra Pulumavi in the inscriptions.
7. Mention of Saka warrior Usavadata (son in law of King Nahapana) in one of the inscriptions.
8. Mention of Kalyan and Sopara ports in inscriptions.
9. Mention of several greek donors from unknown place called as Dhenukakata in inscriptions.
10. Mention of Harapharana and Setapharana (Persian names) from Abulama in inscription.
11. Huge Ashokan Lion pillar with four lions atop.
12. Mithuna sculptures inside and outside the chaityagriha.
13. Mention of the time references in few inscriptions.

Top Important things to see at Karle Caves:
1. The largest and the most spectacular Chaityagriha of India.
2. Temple of Hindu godess Ekvira.
3. The caves with both Hinayana andMahayana architecture.
4. Ancient wooden ribs, yashti and chattri in Chaityagriha (about 2050 years old).
5. Total 37 pali inscriptions , in Brahmi script with legebility.
6. Mention of Satvahana king Vasisthiputra Pulumavi in one of the inscriptions.
7. Mention of Saka warrior Usavadata (son in law of King Nahapana) in one of the inscriptions.
8. Mention of Kalyan ,Sopara and other 10 locations in inscriptions.
9. Mention of several greek donors from unknown place called as Dhenukakata.
10. Mention of Harapharana and Setapharana (Persian names) from Abulama.
11. Huge Ashokan Lion pillar with four lions atop.
12. Traditions of Koli tribe with respect to Stupa.
13. Symbols in chaityagriha.
14. The sculptures in verandah of the chaityagriha.
15. The ancient traditional dress and ornaments on the various men and women in sculptures.
16. Mithuna sculptures inside and outside the chaityagriha.

Karle is a cave group consisting of 15 excavations. The is one of the most important cave group in western India mainly due to its magnificent Chaityagriha.
Cave 1 : On south end of the hill, there is a water cistern and single celled cave with a simple bench.
Cave 2 : West of Cave 1 there is another single celled cave with a bench. There is an inscription in this cave that this is a gift by a monk.
Cave 3 : This is an unfinished cave at the south end.
Cave 4: North of Cave 3, this is a hall with a relief figure of a seated Buddha opposite the central doorway.
Excavation 5 : West if Cave 4, there is a broken water cistern
Cave 6 : Near the water cistern there is a small cell with its front broken, with a Buddha figure carved at the back.
Cave 7: Close to Chaityagriha on south side this is a hall.
Cave 8 : This is a great Chaitya griha.

Cave 9 : North of lion pillar in front of the chaitya griha there is a ruined cave.
Excavation 10 : There is a large open water cistern infront of the cave 9.
Excavation 11: Further north there is a large cavern with traces of Stupa in rock ceiling.
Cave 12 : This is another large open cavern. This is in ruins. There is an inscription of the donation of cave by Bhikshukis.
Cave 13 : This is acessible by stairway from cave 11 and is on the first floor. It has large hall with 4 cells.
Cave 14 : This is above cell 13 and is accessible from one of the rooms in cave 13. There are 2 buddha figures on the wall.
Cave 15 : This is cave next to cave 13 with one hall and 8 cells. There is an inscription with date refrence to rule of Vasishtiputra Pulamavi.

The chaityagriha at Karle is the biggest of its type in the whole of India. The hall measures 37.87 m deep from door to back; 13.87 m wide and 14.02 m high. The interior of chaityagriha at Karle has total 1 stupa with hermika and wooden Chatri, 41 pillars, 25 inscriptions, several sculptures of men and women atop the pillars. The word Chaitya is also derived from a root “chita” signifying “a funeral pile," hence meaning “a monument". These Chaityas or Dagobas are an essential feature of temples constructed solely for purposes of worship and which may therefore be appropriately called chaitya caves.

Stupa: The relics of the Buddha were buried in stupas built at locations associated with important events in the Buddha’s life including Lumbini (where he was born), Bodh Gaya (where he achieved Enlightenment), Deer Park at Sarnath (where he preached his first sermon sharing the Four Noble Truths (also called the dharma), and Kushingara (where he died). These sites were based on both real and legendary events. Stupa , from a Sanskrit meaning " to heap," "to erect," is applied to any pile or mound, as to a funeral pile. It is applied to a tumulus erected over any of the event monuments. Stupas remind the Buddhist practitioner of the Buddha and his teachings almost 2,500 years after Buddha.

The Chatri (Umbrelaa) over Stupa at Karle Chaityagriha, is a set of wooden planks connected by using the wooden inserts. The wooden umbrella is carved on its lower surface which is a visible surface. The carved pattern has various symbols and patterns. The circular array of triratna symbols with lotus flower carved in the circle of triratna can be seen here. The Triratna symbol is often associated with three dharma wheels, the Buddha, the Dharma and the Sangha. This type of Triratna symbols can be seen at various Buddhist monuments such as Sanchi. Apart from the Triratna symbols there is array of lotus flower symbols carved on the umbrella. The central lower wooden support of umbrella also has theme of lotus flower petals as can be seen in the photograph. There are radial carved lines on umbrella. Apart from the radial lines, there is a segment in which there are cross hash lines carved on the umbrelaa. The shape of the umbrella seen today is not a full circle. It is a partial circular in size. The design in sketch when shown in the circle is only to indicate the design pattern.